CAVITY WALL INSULATION
Cavity wall insulation is a simple and cost-effective way of retaining heat in your home by preventing up to a third of heating from escaping. Therefore, energy efficiency is improved and you can save up to £300 a year on energy bills/heating costs.
It has been estimated that around 3 million homes have been affected by low quality and wrongly installed insulation in the UK.
DO I HAVE CAVITY WALLS?
Cavity walls were not a common feature in most homes until the early 1930s, so knowing the date that your house was built is a good indicator. If your house was built after 1930, it is likely that your home has cavity walls.
If you are still unsure, check the thickness of your wall by measuring the width near a window or door. If the wall is wider than 260mm, it is likely that your home features cavity walls.
IS MY HOUSE ELIGIBLE FOR CAVITY WALL INSULATION?
If you are confident that your home has a cavity wall, it is likely that you will be eligible for insulation to be added to your home.
Properties that are less than 10 years old will usually have cavity wall insulation already installed. But you can still benefit even if your property was built with some insulation in it. This is because most new houses are built with just enough insulation to meet the building regulations and are often compatible with a top-up.
Your home is usually suitable for cavity wall insulation if:
1. Walls currently have unfilled cavities.
2. Cavities are at least 50mm in width
3. Brickwork is in general good condition.
CAVITY WALL INSULATION EXTRACTION
Eco Free Boiler UK are experts in identifying cavity wall problems and will undertake FREE site surveys at no cost to the customer.
If any problems are identified, all cavities will be cleared of “old” insulation and debris, inspected and then certified as being completely clear. Only when completely clear can a cavity be filled with bonded bead and a CIGA Guarantee will be issued.
WHY SHOULD I REPLACE MY EXISTING INSULATION?
Older insulation materials such as:
1. Urea Formaldehyde Board
2. Mineral Fibre
3. Glass Fibre
can break down over time and start to hold moisture causing problems, such as dampness. Brick and mortar can also contribute to this problem as they are of a porous nature, allowing moisture to penetrate into insulation material.
If the insulation gets damp, with little air circulation the dampness can become saturated, and the insulation material soon becomes a heat inhibiter rather than an insulator. This dampness can then penetrate into the inside wall causing darkened damp spots, crumbling plaster or fungal decay. If not dealt with this could lead to structural damage. Similarly, poorly or incorrectly installed insulation material, may cause voids in the insulation causing cold spots in large areas of outer walls.
With advances in technology over the last 40 years, modern-day materials, such as Graphite Plus have superior insulation properties. Therefore, extracting old insulation material and replacing it with these new materials will save ongoing costs and make for a warmer household.
HOW IS THE EXTRACTION DONE?
The redundant cavity wall insulation is removed using an industrial vacuum machine and a recognised approved drill pattern is drilled. Then using compressed air, the old insulation material is directed towards the vacuum and extracted.
The drill pattern is followed in the removal of insulation material and possible debris and a borescope is used to check that the entire cavity wall is clear. All waste material is then bagged and taken away.
Once all completed the customer will be issued with a new 25 Year CIGA Guarantee.
EXTERNAL WALL INSULATION
Homes built before 1920 will normally have a ’solid wall’, which does not have a cavity that can be filled and therefore an external or internal solution is required.
Solid walls let through twice as much heat as cavity walls, so insulating your solid walls is essential to increase energy efficiency and significantly reduce heating costs. For example, a three-bedroom semi-detached gas heated home could save as much as £490 on annual heating costs and reduce carbon dioxide emissions by 1.9 tonnes. Furthermore, the application of an external wall insulation system can dramatically enhance the look of your home.
These benefits can also be applied to prefabricated houses.
If your property has a roof with attic space, loft insulation should be the first thing you look at, particularly since an estimated 25% of the heat in your home is lost through this area.
Even if you already have loft insulation in place it may be worth checking whether you have the recommended levels installed. The recommended depth for blanket-style insulation is between 250 and 270mm. If your loft insulation was installed some time ago there’s a good chance it is less than that.
Older houses with ‘suspended floors’, which are above a void, are more likely to lose heat through the floor. Therefore, while floor insulation is a great way to save money, it is by no means the first form of insulation you should look at for your home.
Is it worth insulating under floorboards?
So the simple answer is Yes – it is worth insulating under the floor boards. The problem is that, unless you have space to get under the floor boards, it means taking the floor boards up. The illustration above is a typically method of insulating.